Ruppert-Leroy

Originally sheep farmers, Benedicte and Emmanuel took over the farm in 2009 and immediately moved to organic conversion on their 4 hectares. They practice biodynamic processes in both the vineyards and the cellar including the use of indigenous yeasts and natural hormones which will be realised in their 2013 wines. They have some fascinating techniques which are all self taught including weaving the top line of vines which reduces the need to clip to control vine height. They are reducing copper contact to 1kg per hectare and since 2013 they have worked without sulphur. Their wines are single vineyard and without dosage . The wines spend nine months in barrel and they don’t block malolactic fermentation. They use the Taille to add an aromatic edge.

Fosse-Grelly is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay based on red clay, south facing. The wine shows an extremely delicate mousse with lovely dried blackcurrants and nectarine notes. There is a burst of minerality on the palate and a steely pinot note that expands nicely.

Martin Fontaine is 100% Chardonnay from chalk soils. The mousse is insane! Beautiful smoke and toast from the front end with dried mango and pineapple and a touch of honeycomb on the mid palate. The salinity is immense and balances beautifully with the chalk notes. This wine is epic.

Les Cognaux is 100% Pinot Noir from compact clay soils. The wine is so rich and intense it forces you to draw every drop of saliva you have to get that next sip! A touch of dried oak cakes laced with paprika, goji berries and blackcurrant. Noticeable above all their other wines this needs so much time in the glass.

Saignee des Cognaux, with 4 days maceration is surprisingly light in colour. The wine shows a lovely balance of red fruit and a beautiful layer of chalk and clay. The minerality grows perfectly with time in the glass.

Fosse-Grelly Autrement is as the name suggests; different! 100% Pinot Noir, no sulphur contact. The palate gives you fig upfront with an explosion of sweet toast that builds perfectly. The wine is more linear still though and one that I would enjoy now rather than later.

Their wines have such good balance given the lack of sugar, and superb length, precision and focus. They are very serious wines that dart around the palate with saline notes, sweet fruit and lemon pithe. I have been incredibly impressed by the direction of them. This producer is without a doubt one of the most impressive new winemakers on the block. I will be watching them carefully as well as stocking my cellar up!