J.L. Vergnon

One of my first experiences of pure Mesnil sur Oger was Krug Clos du Mesnil 1990 in Magnum. I have been fortunate. However, with this fortune comes an issue. How can I ever get back to drinking normal Champagne that gives you the same level expression and excitement without having to remortgage my house.

A single word: Vergnon, JL Vergnon. (you must say this in the voice of Sean Connery).

Christophe Constant runs this immaculate house situated along the Grande Rue in the centre of Mesnil sur Oger. He works with vineyards in Mesnil sur Oger, Oger, Vertus and Avize. He wines are without fault. Precise, gripping with oodles of minerality and an intensity that reminds you of that certain Clos.

Early this year (2015) he released a little flutter into the world outside of Mesnil sur Oger. Murmure is a blend of Vertus and Mesnil. It is light smokey number with fleshy apple notes and a touch of grass. Impressive.

Where he steps he up a notch is in the next run of wines:

Conversation is a blend of Mesnil sur Oger, Oger and Avize. Produced in stainless steel tanks and allowed to age for at least 3 years. The wine is produced Brut. The wine shows some lovely vegetal notes on the nose, a touch of butter and biscuit on the palate with a beautifully delicate mid-palate. You really feel the terroir at this mid point with notes of chalk and a feeling of warmth. If you have the patience the wine develops beautifully with bottle age too.

Eloquence is a similar blend but produced as an Extra Brut with 3 g/ltr of sugar. The wine is incredibly focused and mineral driven. Stoney and intense on the palate it opens to reveal green apple notes with a touch of grapefruit all this with an incredible level of purity and salinity. It is by far the most impressive NV from Mesnil sur Oger that I have tasted in some time.

In 2016 Christophe released a new cuvee: O.G. Made from 100% Oger, no malolactic, no dosage. Of all of the Grand Cru villages of the Cote de Blancs, Oger is my least favourite. O.G. is the kind of wine that could change my mind. White apple flesh, a faint fudge note and a much more direct and linear palate than I expect from this village. The finish is crisp and pure. It delivers so much more than I was expecting. Impressive.

Expression is a vintage cuvee produced from vineyards in Cramant and Oger. Produced in stainless steel vats and held for at least 6 years. The 2008 shows a phenomenal level of minerality, tension and salinity. It is a striking wine. So tight. It genuinely feels like it is going to explode!

Confidence sees the juice of Mesnil sur Oger and Oger receive some oak treatment. And what a great idea that is! Produced as Brut Nature it is a phenomenal experience of extraction and minerality. The 2009 gives you a smokey nose with dried salt, grass and vegetal notes. 2008 oozes vanilla, salinity and epic minerality. 2007 is a touch more retired with softer notes of rhubarb, apple and mashed hazelnut.

Sometimes only purity will work and this is what you get with Resonance. Made from one year, 100% Mesnil sur Oger, no oak, no malolactic and from 4 vineyards including the legendary Les Chetillons. It shows surprising weight and minderality on the nose. The palate is intense. Like chewing on 10 sour sweets at once! Just what I like. I was surprised with just how much fruit there was. If you want an understanding of the excellence of Mesnil, without having to remortgage your house, this is the wine to open your eyes.

On a recent visit I had the opportunity to try a number of vinoteque wines including a Condidence 2002, Christophe’s first vintage, and a Conversation base 2003. What was so wonderful was that they picked up delicious secondary notes of pastry and nuts but never lost their piercing, lively finish. So delicious.

As you may have guessed I can’t get enough of Christophe’s wines! In fact I might just crack a bottle right now…