Louise Brison

Delphine Brulez runs this 13 hectare estate in Noe les Mallets. The production was, until 1991, sold off to the local coop, Charles Collin (previously named De Francois), of which her father was the vice president but since then they have been producing their own wines. Only producing wines from a single year, they seem to be finding their way with some impressive cuvees in the 2007 and 2008 vintages. I have a touch of concern for their wines with age which show a little too much maturity for my palate although I still find the sweet texture very enticing!

All vinification is done in oak in their individual parcels. Malolactic fermentation is promoted if required allowing for the natural balance of the wine. A traditional press is used and pumping is avoided throughout. No chemicals are used in the vineyards but organic status is not given as CMC (carboxymethylcellulose: a crystallisation inhibitor) is used to protect the wines from tartric crystals (this not been allowed by the AB). The wines are kept for at least 6 years for the blend and 7 for the Chardonnay.

The Brut Millesime 2008 shows a light note of fig on the nose but with incredible fresh aromas of citrus ( a note found a lot in this geographical area). Clementine, black peppar and peach. It delivers a gripping midpalate and some powerful red fruits. A well balanced wine. Older wines maintain this fresh citrus note but deliver more of the fig notes and seem to gain texture and minerality.

Tendresse 2007, a 100% Chardonnay wine, all from the Cuvee and best plots of the estate seems a touch muted on the nose but with a opulent palate. It is truly fresh. With age the wine develops a sweet hob nob palate but quince notes dominate.

Delphine is on the verge of entering the ring with some big producers in the area. She produces wines of good structure, thought and driven by lovely citrus notes.