Ulysse Collin

Deeply passionate and warm in nature Olivier Collin produces wines that genuinely excite me with every bottle I open. His vineyards are nestled in the region between Bergeres les Vertus and Sezanne on old chalk and flint soils. The soil is king for Olivier and this is reflected in everything he does.

He started production in 2003 having studied under Selosse. Taking his family vineyards back from the negociants he has spent the last 10 years giving the soil the tender loving care they need. When Olivier walks you through the vineyards there is a sense of real love for the soil and for his vines. His sizeable hands are working hands, soil tipped and callused, that unlike mine, appear to make things grow in abundance. He yearns for microbiological activity leaving grass and small plants to grow in between the vines.

In the winery he chooses to use a traditional press as he feels this extracts more tannins and thus requires more maturity from the grapes to balance this. He uses both the Cuvee and Taille as he feels by doing this he is able to gain verticality and breadth from the juice. 15% new oak is used. All wines are kept in parcels in barrel. He always blends with years, except 2008, and uses large oak casks for the reserve wines.

All wines are single parcel wines.

Les Pierrieres, a 1.3 hectare vineyard is found in Toulon la Montagne. It is east facing and the soil is between 10-50cm of clay then chalk. Planted in Chardonnay it has a lovely smokey front end with beautiful tropical notes on the palate balanced with spectacular bitter rind notes of rhubarb and lime.

Les Maillons, a 2.5 hectare vineyard located in Sezanne faces east on an 80cm dark clay soil with limestone then chalk. The vines are 42 years old. It is planted in Pinot Noir and is used to produce both the Blanc and Rose. Always fascinating to try together the vineyard produces superb structure on the palate with a perfect balance of salinity and fruit. I find the toast sits superbly on the front of the palate and leads you brilliantly into this silky mousse. The most recent releases of the Rose have shown a real step up in concentration and balance. It maintains such beautiful minerality and salinity. An incredible wine that requires your attention and a large Burgundy glass!

Les Enfers, a 0.6 hectare vineyard in Congy faces east and sits on dark red clay. It is planted in Chardonnay which averages 35 years old. The wine is incredibly precise and quite linear in style but supreme texture and a mousse that defies the laws!

Les Roises, a 0.6 hectare vineyard in Congy faces south and sits on 1.5 meters of clay then limestone. The Chardonnay vines are extremely old averaging 65 years and produce a wine of incredible power and purity. It possesses some lovely red fruit notes along with a touch of mango and dark roasted coffee. I recently enjoyed a vertical of 2012, 2013 and 2014 and can assure you that this wine is getting better and better. The closest thing to a sparkling Puligny-Montrachet I could possibly imagine!

A fabulous collection of wines and one of the standout producers of the moment.